Camino Day 14: Viloria de Rioja to Viafranca Montes de Oca

Today was a day of struggle: a morning migraine, sciatic pain, and more miles than my recovering body really wanted to travel. I was, and generally am, constantly bewildered and frustrated by my body's failures. Despite my failures though, I pushed through it, and am thankful for my partner's patience and kindness in the face of my frustration.

Today's route seemed to follow Highway N111 for 3/4s of the day-- not unusual for the Camino, but not welcome either. The highway is a main shipping route, so the truck-heavy traffic is loud and, when you're near enough, downright intimidating. Traffic noise was constant for all of the 12.3 miles we walked today, even if not always visible. I long for days when I cannot hear, see, or even smell traffic, as when we were in the Pyrenees.

Tonight, we are staying in a huge, 13th century building that is both fancy hotel and pilgrim's alburgue. For €10, we have single (not bunk!) beds, complete with pillows, sheets, blankets, and even heat. In total, rare comforts for a pilgrim. The pilgrim's meal was also a rare treat, including a variety of soups, stewed rabbit, and homemade rice pudding. Everything may hurt, including my pride, but I will enjoy a glass of sangria, sleep well here tonight, and try again tomorrow.