A Spanish Meal

A pilfrim's life seems rarely to intersect with Spanish life. Yes, a pilgrim walks through the Spanish countryside, seeks guidance at Spanish churches, and buys goods from Spanish shopkeepers, but there the familiarity often ends.

Pilgrims rise early and fall asleep, exhausted, early. We are on the road during lunch, the largest meal of the day. And we arrive in town for the day just as all the shops close and the locals draw the blinds for their daily siesta. In so doing, pilgrims often miss out on intimate experiences with Spanish locals and their culture. It is a rare treat to connect with the language, food, and people of Spain.

Last night was one such treat. We were fortified by a truly exceptional pilgrims' meal, and the connection we made with Begonia-- the co-proprieter of a gastronomic gem in Navarette. First, we had tapas (the best tapas we have tried), and tinto vino. Begonia took an interest in us-- pilgrims, whom she loves, who speak a bit of Spanish. She spoke to us about Spanish life, about the changes she has seen in her time, and about the rising tide of poverty in Spain. She lamented the transition from a large and comfortable middle class-- who lived a happy life of wine, tapas, and community in the streets of the cities--, to the disolution of the middle class and the eminent end of that culture.

We were so taken by Begonia's openness, and her love of pilgrims, that we wanted to try her food. It was, without a doubt, the best meal we have yet eaten in Spain. Her food was often simple and traditional, like chickpea soup with spinach cooked in a terracotta pot, or thrice roasted pork ribs. Sometimes it was simple and surprising, like wild rice with vibrant fresh vegetables, or sweet peppers stuffed with shrimp and cuttlefish. But all of it, both despite and because of its simplicity, was delicious, rich, and satisfying.

Upon leaving, Begonia asked two things of us: light a candle and say a prayer for her when we reach Santiago, and send her a postcard when we return home. I look forward to both as opportunities to remember one of the best meals and most beautiful people we encountered in Spain. Begonia satified both my body and my soul, and I feel truly grateful.