Santiago: The beginning of the end

In Santiago, we sit on Cervantez square drinking tinto verano and watching the pilgrims stream by, with tired feet and joyful smiles. We see many familiar faces in the crowd and greet old friends we walked with for a few minutes, hours, or days. There are many happy meetings and warm embraces, and through all pervades a mix of joy and sadness for what is ending.

Despite this, it is not the end for us. It is only the beginning of the final stage: the last 50 miles to Finnisterre and the Atlantic Ocean. For us, Santiago is a chance to say goodbye to one of our Camino families, and rest and recharge before continuing on the way. It is bittersweet, and Santiago seems an appropriate place for these goodbyes and new beginnings.

Santiago is a town with with many faces: pilgrim, tourist, local, and student. It is easy to discount the place as a kitschy tangle of streets made for weary pilgrims and tourists hoping to claim a bit of their magic, but it is much more than that. It is noisy, vibrant, warm, and international. You can find great food, both local and foreign. You can learn about the rich history of Spain and the millions of people who have made their way here. Or you can have conversations in ten different languages.

Our goodbyes are in Caminoish: a mish-mash of the many different languages spoken by all our fellow pilgrims. For our part, we use English, French, and Spanish to exchange stories, wish people well, and say a final Buen Camino to those whose path ends here. Tomorrow, we will set out again for our own ending: the edge of the world.