Camino Day 41: Monte del Gozo to Santiago de Compostella

We rose today before sunrise and made our way by moonlight and shy dawn to the edge of the city.  Just a half mile downhill through the trees and we were there. It always feels strange to leave the relative quiet and peace of the Camino and walk into a bustling city, but at dawn it feels surreal: urban sprawl, hulking buildings, fleets of parked cars-- all silent and still, waiting.

We were welcomed to Santiago by two late-night party goers stumbling home in the morning light. It seemed appropriate.

The cathedral campanile was just licked by the first rays of pink sunrise as we deposited our bags in a corner of the square and made our way inside by a rear door-- the front is under construction. We had the space to ourselves. We walked around the apse, descended into the chamber of St James reliquary, and lit a candle for Begonia back in Navarette, who fed and loved us so well. We climbed the back of the altar and laid hands on the statue of Saint James. But that was all; there was no catharsis, no emotional release.

We moved on the pilgrim's office. We waited in line on the street, shivering with the other early pilgrims until it opened, then collected our compostellae: the certificate of completion of the Camino. We shared a hug...but I'm still waiting for my catharsis.

Perhaps I will feel it at the real end: Finnisterre, the Atlantic Ocean. Or perhaps that's not how it works at all. Maybe the Camino changes you, and you don't know it till you return to the default world. Either way, I'm looking forward.