Via di Francesco, Day 5: Camaldoli - Badia Prataglia

Saturday, May 27
8.4 km
534 m

Today's walk was short but steep: about 500 meters up and down over 8.4 km. Before leaving the valley monastery, we bid farewell to the Seattle group, who are resting for a day. We were sad to part ways, and hope they catch up to us in Gubbio, where we plan to take our next rest day. That's the nature of camino family though: relationships, like pilgrims, are transient.

We climbed out of the shady valley up a steep hillside. We peered longingly down a declining trail labeled Via St Vincenzo, and idled wondered if St Vincenzo didn't have more sense than St Francis, who always seemed to choose the steepest path.

A brief rest at a spartan but inviting pilgrims' refuge was quite welcome, but a call of nature revealed the uglier side of human traffic through natural areas: waste. I was upset by the large number of dirty tissues behind the shelter. I was and am deeply frustrated by people's lack of respect for nature, the trail, and common courtesy, and so feel compelled to include a gentle reminder here to all future pilgrims: please pack out your trash. ALL of your trash. Including and especially your toilet tissue. Leave nature in nature, and take everything else with you. Having said that, I tried to put my frustration behind me and focus on the path ahead.

We crested the hill and walked along a gentle path near the ridge. The way was crossed by several small streams, warm breezes stirred dry leaves around our feet, and we frequently exchanged greetings and pleasantries with our camino family as we passed each other. Soon, the trail pointed us down toward Badia Prataglia, and we found ourselves ensconced in  Pensione La Foresta.

Like that, the day was over. Short and easy, barely noon. We watched the town priest take riposo sitting in a pool of sun in the open vestibule of the 10th century church. We rested our feet in the sunlight, and shared an apertif with our German friends. We ate heartily of the local specialties: wild venison and boar with creamy polenta. And we went to bed early, grateful for an easy day.

***A final note for future pilgrims: On June 10, 2017, Badia Prataglia will host an international trail running competition. There will be several days of festivities, so hotels are likely to be full all week. Reserve your room now, and check with the forest service to ensure your route will be clear. Find additional info about the race at the official website: www.IAU-ultramarathon.org